What does it take to get multiple communities to co-exist in peace and harmony? This is a question that many a regular Joe, a politician, religious leader and even social observer has wondered but with little or no success if you were to look at results.
There is, however one situation that almost defies logic – all logic if you ask me personally. A little backgrounder for starters ought to be in order for those unaware of the typical communal situation in Hyderabad, India, to understand the gravity of what is going to be said in the paragraphs to come.
First and foremost, it is a city that has historically seen being populated predominantly by Muslims. The culture, the language, the attire and even the typical lifestyle has evolved over the last century, to have a unique flavour of Islam in it.
There have been movies made of the culture, Indian cinema typically tends to have the Hyderabadi as the comic character, Hyderabadis are recognised anywhere in the world to be distinct from other Indians, and most importantly, the lingo and Biryani has always won hearts and palates from all corners of the globe.
So everything ought to be hunky dory right? Wrong. Having lived in this city for over quarter of a century, I can assure you it is far from hunky dory. There is an ever-present danger of communal discord leading to riots and violence. Not a single religious festival passes without a stray incident of communal violence, be it just a boot hurled into a procession or a good old fashioned group brawl in the middle of the streets. The air is always tense…except during the month of Ramadan. Strange but it is true.
The answer is simple – the folks are just too busy eating Haleem. Hyderabadi Haleem as it is often referred to, is similar to the dish made in most Islamic regions, with its base in ground mutton or beef, stewed with wheat and flavoured with a whole host of spices…but the recipe is different here. Just as everything else in Hyderabad typically is…unique. The vegetarians are not spared one bit – they have their own sweet temptation in 100% pure vegetarian Haleem that doesn’t differ in taste from the original preparation. Hurricane Haleem Fever hits land and the city embraces the new Religion in town – Haleem.
Now – you may wonder how a dish could make such a difference…may brush it off as a load of tosh…or just laugh it off as a joke but it’s far from it. We are talking ground realities here. A strange reality that usually starts about two to three months before the holy month of Ramadan. A famous confectioner puts up their hoarding counting the days to the month of Ramadan and of course what they are most famous for – delicious Haleem.
Mouths begin to water, people begin to get restless as the countdown goes to single digits – the plans for having the first taste of Haleem for the year begin to be crystallised. And at 4 PM on the first day of Ramadan, a horde crowds to the local Haleem joint. A horde that usually has more Hindus, Christians and folks belonging to other religious beliefs, than Muslims who don’t break their fast until sundown.
All through the month of Ramadan, no one utters a peep. The newspapers and local television crew never have anything to report but about Haleem Eating Contests, Haleem Making Contests, a regular feature on the famous Haleem joints of the city, and of course one on whether inflation is affecting the Haleem appetite of the local populace. What one never misses, mostly because of the Haleem preoccupation, is the fact that there are no reports of violence. No riots. Not as much as a hint of anything untoward.
Once every year. For one month. The people of Hyderabad are silent. Silent about everything save the hue and cry about when they had their last round of Haleem, or why they’re not having it three times a day – some do.
The Haleem Fever isn’t something that’s now limited to Hyderabad. 7 PM on the first day of Ramadan, I get a call from my childhood friend and true blue Hyderabadi, David. After the typical pleasantries, of “kya karra?” (meaning what’s up) the word comes out…he is digging into a bowl of Haleem from Pista House, delivered piping hot, in 3 hours flat, over a distance of 750 Kilometres or 465 miles.
What? Haleem? Before me who’s in Hyderabad? Impossible! Wrong! Pista House has a tie up with a local airline that delivers fresh from the coals Haleem to most major cities of India. And with a neat little supply chain set up with a logistics partner, the treasures of Hyderabad are delivered to one’s doorstep.
As I quickly hasten towards the nearest Haleem joint I slowly realise – everything else pales to utter insignificance in the light that I have been beat to the first taste of this year’s Haleem by my friend sitting a good 750 kilometres away!
When I approach the Haleem joint, I see a chap squatted on top of the oven dishing out bowls full of Haleem to the folks around…not Muslims, not Christians, not Jews, or Hindus…but an ever growing horde of Haleem lovers.
I walk back home with a stomach full of Haleem – one is never enough…a lingering taste of the delicate flavour of Haleem…and a smile on my face that seemingly nothing can wipe off my face and I begin to wonder. Is this what communal harmony is about?
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